The known and unknown streets of Hong Kong

The territory of Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated in the world, and its city boasts more skyscrapers than anywhere else. The land is split into two main regions by Victoria Harbour, shown. On the upper left of the image is Kowloon side, and on the lower right is Hong Kong Island.

Take the MTR — Mass Transit Railway; Hong Kong’s subway — 16 miles west to emerge on Lantau Island, whose rural greenery is in stark contrast to the harbor’s high rises. On Lantau hang a delicate string of cable cars that provides an aerial view of the countryside.

The cable cars deliver riders to a small plaza near the Hong Kong Big Buddha — a massive 112 foot, 280 ton bronze statue and one of Hong Kong’s most prominent tourist attractions. A great number of stone steps lead up to the base, whose silhouette is faintly visible through the fog.

Back on Hong Kong island is a small aviary, home to an exotic collection of birds, that captures and transports the natural essence of Lantau to the midst of Hong Kong city. Over 600 animals and 80 species are present within the enclosure’s dense foliage.

The aviary closes in the late afternoon, but as dusk falls the streets of Hong Kong are only just beginning to awaken. Street food and night markets are both significant aspects of the local culture; tanghulu — skewered candied fruit — is sold at many stalls at Kowloon’s Temple Street Night Market.

Temple Street is known to be one of the most animated night markets in Hong Kong and draws diverse swarming crowds daily. Rows of merchants line both sides of the pedestrian-only street, some selling food and others tacky trinkets.

Fresh food is a vital staple of the culture and is available on the streets not only at night markets but just about anytime, everywhere. Downstairs from the building on Kowloon side that I stayed in was a mall (large by my standards, small by Hong Kong’s) with at least 20 different bakeries and patisseries that yielded easy access to breakfast.

A couple blocks away on a small side street was a modest stall that’s housed the same, well-liked business for decades. The menu is sparse; sold only are a few defining examples of traditional Hong Kong street food, including cheung fun — rolled rice noodles garnished with sweet, salty, and spicy sauces and sprinkled with sesame seeds.

A bus ride further north into Kowloon led to a very lively, slightly sketchy, entertaining nonetheless market that sold the most arbitrary of items: everything from lavender-scented socks to AirPod lookalikes that lacked speakers to holiday cards in the middle of June and cheap imitation designer bags (think “Gouis Guitton”). Some of the merchants selling produce shone green light on their vegetables to make them look more appealing.

Across the harbor is another market, this one in the heart of Hong Kong city and aimed mainly at tourists.

Stanley Market paid homage to the neon signs that once lit up Hong Kong streets before they were phased out by government removal orders in the early 2000s.

The region bidding farewell to its neon did not necessarily diminish the beauty of the nighttime lights. One of the best places to view the Hong Kong skyline is from just across the harbor on the West Kowloon Waterfront Promenade. Rarely empty, crowds surge around 8 p.m. for the nightly laser show that is projected from the buildings.

A more peaceful plaza exists about a block away from the water. While this one does not exhibit a harbor view, it displays a unique scene of some of the overlooked high rises on Kowloon side.

Nathan Road — the street on which the bus waits — is Hong Kong’s equivalent of Times Square and shines just as brightly at night. Nathan Road, constantly congested with traffic, is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike; restaurants, food stalls, malls, and boutiques line the bustling street.

Hong Kong side; a better view of the harbor and typhoon shelters at which boats may shelter.

These images show streets of similar size on Kowloon and Hong Kong side. On the left is, again, Nathan Road in Kowloon; notice the older street lamps, gritty buildings, and AC units jutting out of small apartment windows; yet, also notice the liveliness of the block on what was a humid weekday afternoon. On the right is Hong Kong side, which is generally regarded as the more upscale, more modern area with taller polished buildings.

The greasy window of a yum cha (dim sum in Mandarin) restaurant was calling my name with its desirable harborside location. (Yum cha is another important staple of Hong Kong culture — we dined on the steamed baos no fewer than five times during our two week stay.) Left is the skyline during the day; right is at night. Hong Kong is entirely reborn when the sun goes down, as it stays until the next morning’s sunrise. (Actually, some of the lights begin turning off as early as midnight.)